Surfing is a water sport that involves riding on the crest or face of moving waves, typically using a surfboard. Participants, known as surfers, paddle out into the ocean to catch waves, which can vary in size and power. The goal is to maneuver the surfboard along and across the breaking waves, performing various tricks and maneuvers. Surfing can take place in different environments, including oceans, rivers, and lakes, where waves can be generated by wind, tides, or natural geological formations. The sport has roots in ancient Polynesian culture but has evolved into a global recreational activity and competitive sport, with various styles and subcultures developing around it. Surfing emphasizes balance, skill, and an understanding of ocean dynamics. It is not only a physical activity but also often associated with a lifestyle that values connection to nature and the ocean.
The North Shore of Oahu, known for its powerful surf, is a place where both legends and near-tragedies are born. Pro surfer Makai McNamara faced a life-threatening incident at Banzai…